Native Cooking

I love strawberries, both wild and cultivated. Wild ones are small but contain more flavor than those big, beautiful ones in the market. Fragaria chiloensis is a coastal strawberry that grows from California north to Alaska. The most common meadow berry east of the Mississippi is fragaria virginiana. In the 20th century, this variety and other wild native berries were pushed out of the commercial market and replaced with oversized, tasteless, modern hybrids.

There are over 600 varieties of this berry, which differ in size, flavor and texture. A cup of strawberries contains only 43 calories and...

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